second day in costa rica

sunset at punta uva
as i write this, i am surrounded by the noise of the rain forest. crickets, frogs, birds, monkeys, and the distant surf are mixing together, and it sounds similar to a meditation/sound effects LP my parents had back in the 70’s. the parallel reminds me of my recent dream about living under a planetarium ceiling.
yesterday we flew in, hopped on a bus and travelled four hours from san jose to puerto viejo, through warm misty mountain cloud forests and gentle rains falling on banana plantations. the sun was shining brightly by the time we arrived at the beach and caught a taxi to our rented house at playa cocles. our landlord juan met us there and sorted out things like keys and mattresses and mosquito nets, then drove us around the corner to the store to pick up candles when the power in the neighborhood suddenly went out. tonight the power is on but we killed the electric lights, and are sitting in rocking chairs on the balcony with candles lined up along the edge.
this morning we set off to test out bandwidth in the area. the internet cafe closest to the house opens at noon “mas o menos”. the hours are not posted, but we asked the proprietor while she was shouting down her order to the traveling pineapple vendor from her bedroom window above the cafe. we walked the main road downtown to “jungle internet” and bought 10 hours of access, then went next door to pan y chocolate and connected to the signal from there. the coffee was excellent, served in french presses, and i had a bowl of papaya, mango, pineapple, watermelon, and yogurt topped with granola. i was IMing with my mom, who told me she had read on the internets (and seen) that i should go to pan y chocolate and try the pan dulce. i laughed and messaged her back that i was eating there as we typed. maybe tomorrow i will go back and take the advice, provided the oven is working. i talked with the owner tom for a bit and his bakery oven has been having some issues.
i bought a bicycle this afternoon. it’s a standard single gear beach cruiser with backpedal brakes, whitewall tires, a basket and a rear rack. the roads have quite a few potholes, and the spring-cushioned seat is a key feature, especially on the rough gravel sections or at night with just the moonlight to guide the way.
marc picked up a bicycle from a friend of his sister’s down at playa negra, and we rode out to punta uva to catch the sunset. the beach up there is pristine, deserted, and the water is bathtub warm. we passed a restaurant on the way back called “jungle love”, and marc mentioned as we passed that he had heard the owners were originally from the bay area. it turns out that both yamu and poppy are in fact from the bay area, and the restaurant kicks ass. we stopped in and had an unbelievably tasty dinner of ginger sesame glazed medium rare fresh tuna on brown rice. the lettuce and vegetables in the salad were of as high quality as i have had.
the candles are burning down, and i am feeling tired. although i haven’t been bitten, or at least haven’t had a reaction to any bites so far, i am going to go crawl under the mosquito net and let the sound of the rainforest send me off to sleep.






9 responses to “second day in costa rica”

  1. halle Avatar

    das ist rad.

  2. lou Avatar

    fuckin’ bitchin, tico.


  3. Don Park Avatar

    cool place. is puerto viejo where you’ll be staying? i thought you were going somewhere more in-land.

  4. gimaha Avatar

    How great is this? I feel that I am there. Ha! and the google ad on your blog is for ocean front properties in Costa Rica…….maybe we can all move!

  5. eric Avatar

    i will be using puerto viejo as homebase for the next few months i think don. actually a little south, at playa cocles.

  6. Steen Avatar

    Pick yerself up a surfboard and hit Salsa Brava, it’s the heaviest wave in Costa Rica …or you can sit up in the restaurant right out in front of the reef and watch..I think it’s called Samsons or Sandersons something like that. I am so damn jealous, I had such a great time in P.Viejo. You should def. cross the border at Sixaola and go check out Panama, Bocas del Toro.

  7. eric Avatar

    yeah it’s called stanford’s steen. haven’t been there yet but rode by a few times on the bike.

  8. eric Avatar

    supposedly salsa brava is the best surf spot in costa rica. i got that out of the lonely planet guide i think.

  9. Bret Avatar

    did you buy a surfboard yet or what?

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